Sanxay - A Gallo-Roman tourist attraction

Alison at SanxayWhen we say Roman, we generally think of Rome, Britannia, possibly Constantinople.

But the Romans were everywhere. Gaul was an early conquest and the Roman life style was fully implanted for many hundreds of years.

Indeed, one of the last outposts of Roman life in the West in the fifth century was in Gaul – the Domain of Soissons in northern France.

But there are ruins everywhere and people have been fascinated by them since at least the Renaissance. As a self-confessed ‘Roman nut’, I’m always delighted to visit one new to me at Sanxay in the Vienne department of the Nouvelle-Aquitaine region in western France.

Why is it ‘Gallo-Roman’ in France and not just ‘Roman’?

Ducks to water – The civilisation that evolved in ancient Gaul (modern France) was a unique cultural synthesis between native Celtic/Gallic traditions and Roman rule, rather than a simple military occupation. The pragmatic Romans found it easier to control such a large area via baths, roads, legal systems and togas rather than by continuous and expensive military action.

  • Cultural fusion: After Gaius Julius Caesar’s conquest, the Gauls didn’t just vanish nor were all wiped out despite Caesar’s aggressive campaigns. Local elites bought into the Roman lifestyle (See What did the Romans do for us? video 😉 ) People at every level found that adopting Roman law, architecture, Latin and trading opportunities was A Good Thing.  At the same time, they retain indigenous traits, tribal loyalties and social structures while pragmatically merging Celtic and Roman gods in their religion.
  • Language evolution: Latin spoken in Gaul absorbed a distinctive Celtic/Gaulish layer influencing pronunciation and vocabulary, a language that evolved into an early Romance language in what would become France.
  • Local identity & self-image: The inhabitants of Gaul increasingly viewed themselves as part of the Roman world while keeping a distinct regional identity tied to the old Gallic geography. L’exception française is still a strong concept in France today. (I know the Franks came along after the Celts and Romans, but some ideas persist…)
  • 19th century nationalism: French scholars heavily promoted the “Gallo-Roman” narrative to forge a national origin story especially after the defeat in the Franco-Prussian War of 1870. France could claim both a proud, ancient Gallic ancestral root (nos ancêtres les Gaulois) and the high civilising prestige of the Roman Empire.
Photo of Sanxay Roman theatre

A theatre of two halves at Sanxay – Note the size of the two modern humans!

So what role did Sanxay play?

It’s generally thought the site was a large rural sanctuary related to the cult of healing waters. The central feature is an octagonal temple plan – an uncommon structure – plus a Gallo-Roman theatre and an extensive suite of therapeutic baths. Additionally, some buildings were probably intended to accommodate visitors seeking cures from the natural springs.

Antiquarian plan of Gallo-Roman Sanxay

The site is huge, larger than the remains visible today, and reckoned to have covered at least twenty hectares and included dwelling houses, storage warehouses and stables.

Reconstruction of the Gallo-Roman sanctuary of Sanxay. Display panel at the Sanxay visitor center (© Centre des monuments nationaux).

Reconstruction of the Gallo-Roman sanctuary of Sanxay. Display panel at the Sanxay visitor center (© Centre des monuments nationaux).

It was excavated between 1881 and 1883 by Father Camille de La Croix, but the area dug at the time was subsequently backfilled. Only the temple, the theatre and the water sanctuary/baths, classified as historic monuments in 1882, remain visible.

Sanxay baths complex

Sanxay baths complex

One of the hot pools at Sanxay

One of the hot pools at Sanxay

The Sanxay timeline

From coin finds, the site was probabaly occupied from the end of the 1st century BC. Around the middle of the 1st century AD, the octagonal temple, the original buildings at the sanctuary and the first permanent residences appeared. Apollo and Mercury are thought to have been the ‘resident’ gods.

Sanxay reached its apogee in the 2nd century with the double cella temple was built and the completion of the octagonal temple. The large bath complex was added at this time. Further expansion continued until the end of the 2nd century.

Sanxay sanctuary outline

Sanxay sanctuary outline

 

Artist's impression of Roman temple at Sanxay

Artist’s impression of Roman temple at Sanxay. Franck devedjian, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

After that, Sanxay seems to have declined, which may have been due to the crisis of the 3rd century or the rise of Christianity. Prominent Christians like Hilary of Poitiers and Martin of Tours in the 4th century may well have overshadowed the traditional Roman religion seeing it as paganism.

The visible remains of Sanxay are now accessible to the public, under the supervision of the Centre des Monuments Nationaux.

I thoroughly enjoyed clambering over the site and am delighted to highlight an ‘undiscovered’ and unusual Roman religious and health establishment.

Alison Morton is the author of Roma Nova thrillers –  INCEPTIO, CARINA (novella), PERFIDITAS, SUCCESSIO,  AURELIA, NEXUS (novella), INSURRECTIO  and RETALIO,  and ROMA NOVA EXTRA, a collection of short stories. JULIA PRIMA and EXSILIUM,  set in the late 4th century, tell the story of Roma Nova’s foundation.  Audiobooks are available for four of the series. Double Identity, Double Pursuit and Double Stakes form a new contemporary thriller series. A new collection of Roma Nova short stories, HEROICA, is now out. 

Download ‘Welcome to Alison Morton’s Thriller Worlds’, a FREE eBook, as a thank you gift when you sign up to Alison’s monthly email update. As a result, you’ll be among the first to know about news and book progress before everybody else, and take part in giveaways.

On the road to Rome

I do love a good Roman road.

In ‘The Idealist’ in my recent Roma Nova short story collection, HEROICA, Statia Mitela could not have fulfilled her mission in 1849 Rome without these roads built by her ancestors and which have endured as routes and often the only properly paved road in the area through the millennia.

You can find Roman roads (viae Romanae), whether almost fully intact or reduced to little more than a trackway, all over Europe, even in the barbarous little island to the north called Britannia. The one in the photo is the Via Domitia at Ambrussum, near Nimes in southern France which provided a fast and sure link from Spain to Italy and northwards up the Rhone valley. It was built in 118 BC by the proconsul Gnaeus Domitius Ahenobarbus and is still with us, wheel ruts and all, over 2,000 years later.

If you asked people what defined Roman engineering, Roman roads would lie towards the top of the list. They were the physical infrastructure vital to the maintenance and development of the Roman state and were built from about 300 BC through the expansion and consolidation of the Roman Republic and the Roman Empire.

Primarily, the roads were for military use as a quick and efficient means for overland movement of armies and officials  However, they also allowed the movement of people and goods, and connected isolated communities, helping them to absorb new ideas and influences, sell surplus goods, and buy what they could not produce locally. This trade resulted in an increase of wealth for everyone to a level not seen before and is suggested as a strong reason why many people strove to adopt the lifestyle of their conquerors. 

Via Appia, Rome today (Author photo)

Via Appia, Rome today (Author photo)

These Roman roads ranged from small local roads to broad, long-distance highways built to connect cities, major towns and military bases. These major roads were often stone-paved and metalled, cambered for drainage, and flanked by footpaths, bridleways and drainage ditches. They were laid along accurately surveyed courses and some cut through hills or over rivers and ravines on complex bridgework. Sections could be supported over marshy ground on rafted or piled foundations.

Roman surveyor with groma (left) and dioptra (right) at the Eboracum Roman Festival 2019 (Author photo)

The Roman surveyors (agrimensores) were highly skilled professionals, able to use a number of tools, instruments, and techniques to plan the courses for roads and aqueducts, and lay the groundwork for towns, forts and large buildings. We half-jokingly talk about the Romans and their straight roads, but that throwaway statement is not far away from the truth. Much more about surveyors, techniques and instruments at https://explorable.com/roman-roads.

Some numbers

At the peak of Rome’s development, no fewer than 29 great military highways radiated from the capital, and the late Empire’s 113 provinces were interconnected by 372 great roads. The whole comprised more than 400,000 kilometres (250,000 miles) of roads, of which over 80,500 km (50,000 mi) were stone-paved. In Gaul alone, no less than 21,000 km (13,000 mi) of roadways are said to have been improved, and in Britain at least 4,000 km (2,500 mi). The courses (and sometimes the surfaces) of many Roman roads survived for millennia; quite a number have been overlaid by modern roads.

So were all roads like the ones in the movies?

No. Like ours today, they had different uses and were built to different specifications.

Viae publicae, consulares, praetoriae and militares

The first type of road included public main roads, constructed and maintained at the public expense; the state owned the land they were built on. Such roads led either to the sea, or to a town or to another public road. 

Roman roads were often named after the censor who ordered their construction or reconstruction. That same person often served afterwards as consul, but the road name is dated to his term as censor. If the road was older than the office of censor or was of unknown origin, it took the name of its destination or of the region through which it mainly passed. A road was renamed if the censor ordered major work on it, such as paving, repaving, or rerouting. 

Viae privatae, rusticae, glareae and agraria

The second category included private or country roads, originally constructed by private individuals, who owned the land they were built on and who had the power to dedicate them to the public use. Such roads benefited from a right of way, in favour either of the public or of the owner of a particular estate. Viae privatae were also included roads leading from the public or high roads to particular estates or settlements. 

Roads off the main via were connected by viae rusticae, or secondary roads. Both main or secondary roads might either be paved, or left unpaved, with a gravel surface, as they were in North Africa. These prepared but unpaved roads were viae glareae or sternendae (“to be strewn”). Beyond the secondary roads were the viae terrenae, “dirt roads”.

Viae vicinales

The third category comprised roads at or in villages, districts, or crossroads, leading through or towards a vicus or village. Such roads ran either into a main road or into other viae vicinales without any direct communication with a high road. They were considered public or private, according to whether they were funded by public or private funds or materials. Even if privately constructed, this type of road became a public road when the memory of its private constructors had perished.

The repairing authorities in this case were the magistri pagorum or magistrates of the cantons. They could ‘require’ the neighbouring landowners either to provide labourers for the general repair of the viae vicinales or to keep in repair, at their own expense, a certain length of road passing through their respective properties. It was probably in their own interest anyway as without a good road farm produce couldn’t get to market.

Building the roads

We have the funding and the responsibility, but who actually did the heavy lifting in the first place?

Building the main viae was a military responsibility and thus came under the jurisdiction of a consul. The process had a military name, viam munire, as though the via were a fortification. Municipalities, however, were responsible for their own local roads (viae vicinales). 

The beauty and grandeur of the big roads might tempt us to believe that any Roman citizen could use them for free, but charging for using roads is not a new idea. Tolls abounded, especially at bridges. Often they were also collected at the city gate. Freight costs were made heavier still by import and export taxes, often between provinces. On Apulius’s journey to Virunum in The Girl from the Market, a customs official tries to extract duties as Apulius crosses from Raetia into Noricum on his way to his posting in Virunum.You can imagine the answer Apulius, as a serving military tribune, gave him…

These were only the charges for using the roads. Costs of services for the journey, e.g. horse, mule and carriage hire or haulage charges for goods was on top.

Roman relief depicting a travelling wagon (raeda)from a tomb from Virunum, Zollfeld, Austria.

Roman relief depicting a travelling wagon (raeda)from a tomb from Virunum, Zollfeld, Austria.

Along comes Augustus who tended to change everything…

In his overhaul of the urban administration, Augustus both abolished and created new offices for the maintenance of public works, streets and aqueducts in and around Rome. And, of course, he had Agrippa to supervise them with an unrivalled, almost frightening, efficiency. Emperors succeeding Augustus exercised vigilant control over the condition of public highways and their names occur frequently in the inscriptions to restorers of roads and bridges.

Down to the nitty-gritty

Roman road builders aimed at a regulation width, but actual widths have been measured at between 1.1 m (3.6ft) and more than 7 m (23ft) Today, the concrete has worn from the spaces around the stones, giving the impression of a very bumpy road, but the original practice was to produce a surface that was no doubt much closer to being flat. Many roads were built to resist rain, freezing and flooding and to need as little repair as possible. (Lessons for us today?)

Roman construction took a directional straightness(!). Many long sections are ruler-straight, but not all of them were. Some links in the network were as long as 89 km (55 mi). Gradients of 10%–12% are known in ordinary terrain, 15%–20% in mountainous country. The Roman emphasis on constructing straight roads often resulted in steep slopes relatively impractical for most commercial traffic; over the years the Romans themselves realised this and built longer, but more manageable, alternatives to existing roads. Roman roads generally went straight up and down hills, rather than in a serpentine pattern of switchbacks.

Materials and methods

Viae were distinguished not only according to their public or private character, but according to the materials employed and the methods followed in their construction. 

  • Via terrena: A plain road of levelled earth.
  • Via glareata: An earthed road with a gravelled surface or or a gravel subsurface and paving on top. 
  • Via munita: A standard built road, paved with rectangular blocks of the stone of the country, or with polygonal blocks of lava.

The Romans, though certainly inheriting some of the art of road construction from the Etruscans, were said to have borrowed the knowledge of construction of viae munitae from the Carthaginians.

How far from A to B? 

Milestones divided the via Appia even before 250 BC into numbered miles, and most viae after 124 BC. A milestone, or miliarium, was a circular column on a solid rectangular base, set for more than 2 ft/0.61m into the ground, standing 5ft/1.5m  tall, 20in/51cm in diameter, and weighing more than 2 tons. At the base was inscribed the number of the mile relative to the road it was on.The milestone below dates from the time of Antoninus Pius (138-161 AD).

Roman milestone, Poitiers Museum

Roman milestone, Poitiers Museum (Author photo and translation)

When Augustus, after becoming permanent commissioner of roads in 20 BC, set up the miliarium aureum (“golden milestone”) near the Temple of Saturn a panel at eye-height on milestones showed the distance to the Roman Forum as well as various other details about the officials who made or repaired the road. All roads were considered to begin from this gilded bronze monument. On it were listed all the major cities in the empire and distances to them.

And as we know, all roads lead to Rome.

Update 2026: Alison Morton is the author of Roma Nova thrillers –  INCEPTIO, CARINA (novella), PERFIDITAS, SUCCESSIO,  AURELIA, NEXUS (novella), INSURRECTIO  and RETALIO,  and ROMA NOVA EXTRA, a collection of short stories. JULIA PRIMA and EXSILIUM,  set in the late 4th century, tell the story of Roma Nova’s foundation.  Audiobooks are available for four of the series. Double Identity, Double Pursuit and Double Stakes form a new contemporary thriller series. A new collection of Roma Nova short stories, HEROICA, is now out. 

Download ‘Welcome to Alison Morton’s Thriller Worlds’, a FREE eBook, as a thank you gift when you sign up to Alison’s monthly email update. As a result, you’ll be among the first to know about news and book progress before everybody else, and take part in giveaways.

Ruth Downie – Remarkable Roman writer

Ruth Downie in Roman dress, portraitLast week I received some very sad news. A longtime fellow Roman writer and, more than that, a friend had passed into the shades. Ruth was an intelligent, knowledgeable and generous-hearted woman with a dry sense of humour. Here she is in her own words on her website which I hope will stay online for a while to commemorate her.

Her series about a Ruso, a grumpy and let’s be fair, put-upon, Roman army medic and his British wife, Tilla has given pleasure to hundreds of thousands of readers. I love every story and am thrilled to have signed copies of several of them.

We shared many conversations and had fun at events and festivals. In contrast, I particularly enjoyed the quiet weekend spent with her at her home in Devon in March 2023.

 

Although we’ve kept in contact until recently, I last saw her in September 2024 at the Historical Novel Society conference in Dartington, Devon, where we dressed up as Romans along with fellow author Kate Quinn and gave our unique view on what we thought about how Romans were portrayed on screen.

We did make the audience laugh, but we also combined to make them think beyond the swords-and-sandals stereotype view of how we perceive Romans.

And there wasn’t a gladius in sight!

 

 

 

Here we are at the Colchester Roman festival 2023 with author Lindsey Davis

Lindsey Davis, Alison Morton, Ruth Downie

Lindsey Davis, Alison Morton, Ruth Downie

Ruth was an early guest on my blog in 2014 where she gave us a unique insight into ancient Roman medical practice (involves donkey poo…)

Donkey – essential to Roman medicine

Donkey – essential to Roman medicine

And here we all are at the first Colchester Roman festival in 2022

Ruth was often the one taking the photos, but I and others did manage to capture a few of her.

She was so supportive of my own writing, giving me an endorsement for AURELIA and suggesting reference books on Roman travel and discussing the death count in our books or the liklihood a of a Roman slave girl remaining a virgin at 22. (Roman fiction authors are not known for their delicacy.)

I shall miss her sorely as will her readers and other colleagues.

 

Alison Morton is the author of Roma Nova thrillers –  INCEPTIO, CARINA (novella), PERFIDITAS, SUCCESSIO,  AURELIA, NEXUS (novella), INSURRECTIO  and RETALIO,  and ROMA NOVA EXTRA, a collection of short stories. JULIA PRIMA and EXSILIUM,  set in the late 4th century, tell the story of Roma Nova’s foundation.  Audiobooks are available for four of the series. Double Identity, Double Pursuit and Double Stakes form a new contemporary thriller series. A new collection of Roma Nova short stories, HEROICA, is now out. 

Download ‘Welcome to Alison Morton’s Thriller Worlds’, a FREE eBook, as a thank you gift when you sign up to Alison’s monthly email update. As a result, you’ll be among the first to know about news and book progress before everybody else, and take part in giveaways.