Why do I insist on clambering over old stones, foundations, really, of buildings dating back 2,000 years? Or paving slabs, funny concrete, remnants of wall paintings or bits of mosaic? And looking at broken bits of pottery and metalwork? And sometimes staring at beautiful whole glass and marble creations that I can’t possibly understand how they were made?
 Roman roof nails from Magdalensberg, Noricum
It’s basically about people.
Who touched these things? Who made them? And the big questions – why did they make them? The impact of the Roman world is often one of “We did the Romans, Tudors and Nazis at school.” Romans were blokes in tunics, overlapping ribs of metal, helmets and used a gladius to conquer [insert place of choice]. This is often the Hollywood depiction and can irritate the Hades out of historians and historical fiction writers.
Rome went from a grubby little village or two to a world superpower and dwindled into a few acres of land around Ravenna. But it took 1,229 years and apart from the literature, plumbing and administrative processes, etc. (see the Monty Python video), they left an enormous amount of ‘stuff’ behind them.

Aqueducts, road, barracks, fora, temples, basilicae are a small part. What really tells us about them are is the sheer variety, quality and complexity of their cooking and medical utensils, gambling games, hairpins, lamps, nails, taps, glassware, (inevitably) pots and bowls, chains, furniture, food remains, woodwork tools, coins, handles, locks, ingot moulds, rings, bracelets and necklaces, horse decorations and remnants of armour, weapons even textiles. All these things were made, worn, consumed, discarded and/or repaired by every level of society.
 Food remains from Magdalensberg: Horse – millet, Roggen – rye, Nüsse – hazelnuts, Erbsen – peas, Feldbohnen – fava beans. Also snails and oysters (not shown)
The images in this post are just a few things I saw on my recent trip to the Magdalensberg and Emona, both in Roman Noricum. We seem to trip over hordes (and hoards) of this ‘stuff’ whichever part of the ex-Roman territories we visit. Sometimes it’s breathtakingly beautiful; other times just a load of broken amphorae. I was particularly attracted to a display of pigments and painters’ tools at Magdalensberg.
 Three different reds, yellow and locally made Egyptian blue from Magdalensberg
And here’s an imagined way they were applied…
 Painting the walls red, from Magdalensberg
Perhaps Aegius, the painter with a ton of hidden secrets in JULIA PRIMA, used very similar colours as well as the rarer gold and green paints.
In another post, I’ll try to solve the mystery of the most famous ‘find’ on the Magdalensberg. It involves exhilaration, theft, copying and a disappearance into history. Nothing is as it seems…
Alison Morton is the author of Roma Nova thrillers – INCEPTIO, CARINA (novella), PERFIDITAS, SUCCESSIO, AURELIA, NEXUS (novella), INSURRECTIO and RETALIO, and ROMA NOVA EXTRA, a collection of short stories. Audiobooks are available for four of the series. Double Identity, a contemporary conspiracy, starts a new series of thrillers. JULIA PRIMA, a new Roma Nova story set in the late 4th century, is now out.
Download ‘Welcome to Alison Morton’s Thriller Worlds’, a FREE eBook, as a thank you gift when you sign up to Alison’s monthly email update. You’ll also be among the first to know about news and book progress before everybody else, and take part in giveaways.
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 Magdalensberg general view
Dateline 27 May 2023, Ljubljana, Slovenia
Going on a proper holiday for the first time since the Covid 19 pandemic is exhilarating. This city is beautiful, redolent of Roman, Medieval, Renaissance, Early Modern, Baroque, Austro-Hungarian, Jugendstil/Art Nouveau history with remnants of Communist architecture, plus pure 21st century.
Emona (Roman precursor to Ljubljana) was an important town in the prosperous province of Noricum, but Virunum was the regional capital and the one I had to see. So we set off into the mountains over the Loibelpaß which connects Austria with Slovenia (route E652).
Today, the most difficult and highest part of the historic mountain pass has been replaced by a road tunnel and the original route has now been permanently closed to traffic. But different trails had been used since ancient times, connecting Emona and Virunum. In JULIA PRIMA, our heroine goes through what is now the modern Predil Pass, but the scenery is much the same. Was I excited? I leave you to guess!
But first stop was the Magdalensberg Archaeological Park on the site of the original pre-Roman and early Roman town built on a defensible hill above the valley where the imperial Roman town of Virunum would later be established. The Celts of Noricum had discovered around 500 BC that their local deposits of iron ore made superior steel, so they built up a major metalworking industry. Traces have been found on the Magdalensberg of a major production and trading centre where specialised blacksmiths crafted metal products, including sophisticated tools and weapons.
 Construction period plan (Apologies for the light reflection – it was a sunny day.)
By 200 BC, the tribes of Noricum had united into one kingdom, the Regnum Noricum. During their Republican period the Romans discovered the high quality of the weapons coming out of Noricum and, never ones to miss an opportunity, started negotiations with the Regnum Noricum and its craftsmen.
 Trader graffiti on the walls of the merchant shops at the forum, scratched inscriptions relating to the iron trade and various financial transactions have been preserved. Good insight into the extensive movement of goods. “Sinous from Aquileia bought 110 15 pound bowls/basins”,”560 hooks, 575 rings”,”Borrowed money from May 1st to June 19th (2 x 30 days)”
For decades afterwards, the Noricans enjoyed independence under their own local rulers while continuing to trade profitably with the Romans. The resulting trade agreements led to the kingdom becoming a key ally of Rome, benefitting from Roman military protection in exchange for the constant supply of high-quality products.
The inhabitants of the Magdalensberg took to the Roman lifestyle – temple, basilica, baths – you name it!
 Temple. Altars to the goddess Roma and to the deified Augustus have been found. There is a suggestion, Mars was also worshipped.
 Basilica, looking towards the governor’s audience room and public baths
 Public baths changing room
 New baths rebuilt after the earthquake in 9 AD
Video of Governor’s audience room:
Not the most exciting images, but they give you an idea of the taste of the time.
Wall plaques from the Noricans honouring Augustus, Livia, his daughter Julia and his granddaughter.

For practical reasons, mostly trade and administrative creep, Noricum was fully integrated into the Roman Empire during the reign of Claudius (AD 41–54) and Municipium Claudium Virunum, was founded as the capital of the province of Noricum which covered more or less today’s Austria and northern Slovenia. Apparently, the Noricans offered little resistance. Much more detail (and pictures!) here.
Trade continued as did the extraction and dispatch of gold to the emperor. Moulds with imperial inscriptions have been excavated at the foundry site. Archaeologists suggest the row of pits in the image below may well be small smelting ovens for gold.
 Small smelting ovens “viewed through a glass darkly”
And where did these important gold smelters, or more likely the official in charge of this operation, live? There are extensive living quarters to the southwest of the excavated site with their own bakery, baths and guest rooms.
In the next post, we’ll look at some of the finds, including one prominent one which has mysteriously disappeared.
Alison Morton is the author of Roma Nova thrillers – INCEPTIO, CARINA (novella), PERFIDITAS, SUCCESSIO, AURELIA, NEXUS (novella), INSURRECTIO and RETALIO, and ROMA NOVA EXTRA, a collection of short stories. Audiobooks are available for four of the series. Double Identity, a contemporary conspiracy, starts a new series of thrillers. JULIA PRIMA, a new Roma Nova story set in the late 4th century, is now out.
Download ‘Welcome to Alison Morton’s Thriller Worlds’, a FREE eBook, as a thank you gift when you sign up to Alison’s monthly email update. You’ll also be among the first to know about news and book progress before everybody else, and take part in giveaways.
If you enjoyed this post, do share it with your friends!

In the Roma Nova story, over four hundred Romans loyal to the old gods trekked north out of Italy in AD 395 to a semi-mountainous area similar to modern Slovenia.
Led by Apulius and his friend Mitelus at the head of twelve senatorial families, they established a colony based initially on land owned by Apulius’s Celtic father-in-law.
By purchase, alliance and conquest, this grew into Roma Nova, as portrayed in the modern era in the Roma Nova thrillers.
But what was that crumbling Roman world of AD 395 like that prompted the two friends to escape?
Rome – a tale of two cities
The Roman empire had changed in many ways since the time of Augustus nearly four hundred years before; the East, centred on the well fortified and connected Constantinople, continued to grow in importance as a centre of trade and imperial power while Rome itself diminished greatly in political importance.
 Ambrose barring Theodosius from Milan Cathedral, Anthony van Dyck, c. 1620 (Reckoned now to have been a greatly exaggerated event!)
Christianity was enforced as the official state religion; Theodosius had issued edicts during the 390s banning pagan religious practice, closing temples and dousing the sacred flame that had burnt for over a thousand years. Although the senatorial classes that Apulius and Mitelus belonged to held on to their traditions, across the empire the old pagan culture was disappearing.
The West outside Rome and other large cities, less urbanized with a spread-out populace, experienced economic decline throughout the Late Empire, especially in outlying provinces such as southern Italy, northern Gaul, Britain, to some extent Spain and the Danubian areas.
After emperor Gallienus banned senators from army commands in the mid-3rd century, the wealthy senatorial elite lost experience of, and interest in, military life. Sons did join the army – some senatorial families believed military experience in early adulthood made tougher men later – but they left early as the career path was blocked.
Unfortunately, as it headed towards the 5th century, the remaining landowning elite of the Roman senate not only largely barred its tenants from military service but also refused to approve sufficient funding for maintaining a sufficiently powerful mercenary army to defend the Western Empire. Not the best strategy ever. By AD 394, 200,000 soldiers guarded the borders with a reserve force of 50,000. Many of the non-Roman soldiers who made up these forces came from Germanic tribes: Alamanni, Franks, Goths, Saxons and Vandals.
 Historical Atlas, William R Shepherd, 1923
After AD 394, the new Western government installed by Theodosius I increasingly had to divert military resources from Britain and the Rhine to protect Italy. This, in turn, led to further rebellions and civil wars because the Western imperial government was not providing the military protection the northern provinces expected and needed against the barbarians.
As central power weakened, the state gradually lost control of its borders and farther-flung provinces, and with the Vandals conquering North Africa, it lost control over the Mediterranean Sea, the hallowed Mare Nostrum (‘Our Sea’). Basically, the imperial authorities had to cover too much ground with too few resources. In many places, Roman institutions collapsed along with economic stability. In some regions, such as Gaul and Italy, the settlement of ‘barbarians’ on former Roman lands seemed to be accepted and caused relatively little disruption.
 Gold solidus of Honorius 393-423 AD
Theodosius died in AD 395 at 48 years old and with him went the strong government imposed by his will. The empire split again into two, his sons Honorius took the West, and Arcadius the East.
The Roman Empire lost the strengths that had allowed it to exercise effective control: the declining effectiveness and numbers of the army, lower agricultural yields, thus poorer health and numbers of the Roman population, less tax revenue from fewer productive lands, less frequent use of trading routes due to lower production of goods.
 Central European peasant house
Long-distance markets disappeared thus undermining the stability of the economy and its complexity, technological and engineering knowledge faded within a few generations, the whole compounded by the decreasing competence of the emperor, the religious upheavals, and diminishing efficiency of the civil administration, not to mention increasing pressure from ‘barbarians’ outside Roman culture.
As the once powerful empire fragmented, people reverted to more of a subsistence economy, to a greater degree of local production and consumption, rather than webs of commerce and specialised production Its society was unravelling, collapsing from inside. By AD 395 the Roman Empire was firmly on its way to becoming a failed state.
And for traditional Romans like Apulius, Mitelus and friends?
The Late Antique period saw a wholesale transformation of the political and social basis of life. The Roman citizen elite in the 2nd and 3rd centuries, under the pressure of taxation and the ruinous cost of presenting spectacular public entertainments in the traditional cursus honorum, had found under the Antonines that security could only be obtained by combining their established roles in the local town with new ones as servants and representatives of a distant Emperor and his travelling court.
After Constantine centralised the government in his new capital of Constantinople in AD 330, the Late Antique upper classes were divided among those who had access to that far-away centralised administration and those who did not. Although well-born and classically educated, election by the Senate to magistracies was no longer the path to success. Room at the top of Late Antique society involved increasingly intricate channels of access to the emperor.
 The Favourites of the Emperor Honorius, John William Waterhouse, 1883
 No more togas !
The plain toga that had identified all members of the Republican senatorial class had given way to the silk court vestments and jewellery that we associate with Byzantine imperial iconography. The imperial cabinet of advisors, the consistorium, was made up of those who were prepared to stand in courtly attendance upon their seated emperor, as distinct from the informal set of friends and advisors surrounding Augustus. Thus, Romans in the city of Rome like Apulius and Mitelus were stranded from power, yet caught by their inbred loyalty to the emperor.
In mainland Greece, the inhabitants of Sparta, Argos and Corinth abandoned their cities for fortified sites in nearby high places. In Italy, populations that had clustered within reach of Roman roads began to withdraw from them, as potential avenues of intrusion, and to rebuild in typically constricted fashion round an isolated fortified promontory, or rocca. In the Balkans, inhabited centres contracted and regrouped around a defensible acropolis, or were abandoned.
Thus, four hundred Romans trekking out of their once glorious, teeming and powerful city to a mountainous region in the north in order to preserve their way of life religion and culture was far from unusual. You can read why and how they went into voluntary exile in EXSILIUM.
The next trick was to survive.
————–
Book recommendation: The Fall of the Roman Empire and the End of Civilisation, Bryan Ward-Perkins, (Oxford University Press, 2005)
Updated 2023 and 2024: Alison Morton is the author of Roma Nova thrillers – INCEPTIO, CARINA (novella), PERFIDITAS, SUCCESSIO, AURELIA, NEXUS (novella), INSURRECTIO and RETALIO, and ROMA NOVA EXTRA, a collection of short stories. Audiobooks are available for four of the series. Double Identity, a contemporary conspiracy, starts a new series of thrillers. JULIA PRIMA, Roma Nova story set in the late 4th century, starts the Foundation stories. The sequel, EXSILIUM, is now out.
Download ‘Welcome to Alison Morton’s Thriller Worlds’, a FREE eBook, as a thank you gift when you sign up to Alison’s monthly email update. You’ll also be among the first to know about news and book progress before everybody else, and take part in giveaways.
If you enjoyed this post, do share it with your friends!
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